Doll Dressmaking Series: Pants Two Ways

A while back, I did a tutorial for capris. Making pants is the same as making capris, with one exception, the American Girl doll pants have a side seam. If you are sewing for an AG doll and need help sewing the side seam or determining order of sewing the seams, this tutorial includes side seams. The capris tutorial is here, and can be used with the pants patterns just sent out with this newsletter for pants or capris.

Pattern pieces for these pants and other tutorials can be obtained by subscribing to my newsletter. Subscription box is on the right of this blog post.

To make these pants with the trim at the bottom, you will need to cut out the capris-length pants.

First, apologies, I chose a fabric that is the same on the wrong side as the right side. To try to lessen the confusion, I have tried to mark in the tutorial which is the wrong side and which is the right. This is what the American Girl Pattern Pieces look like:

Wellie Wishers, Sasha, both sizes of Phoebe pattern look like this and do not need a side seam and look like this:

For the American Girl Pattern, first sew the side seams with right sides together. All other pattern sizes, after the side seams, your directions are the same

Next, you will sew the front center seam with right sides together.

Sew Center Front seam.

If you are adding the trim flourish, fold each piece of trim in half, wrong sides together.Next, we will sew on the trim at the bottom of each leg.

Sew the trim pieces to the bottom of each pant leg, right sides together. Keep the trim pieces folded when you sew/attach them.

Sewing trim piece to bottom of pants leg.

Open and iron. If you want to add rick rack or another trim (completely optional), sew that on.

Next, you will sew the casing for the waist elastic and tunnel in the elastic. To determine the elastic length, measure the waist of your doll and cut the elastic. The waist elastic needs to be slightly shorter than her waist, and once you sew it in, it will be. I used 3/8 inch elastic. Directions for tunneling your elastic are here.

To make the casing, first hem your fabric 1/4 inch. Then fold it over about 1/2 inch and sew.

Hem ¼ inch to start elatic casing.

Next, fold over enough to encase the elastic.

Tunnel elastic through the casing. Directions are in this capris tutorial. The photo below also shows you how. Be sure to stitch the first end of the elastic so you don’t accidentally pull it out.

Sew the back center seam.

Sew the center leg seams and flip right side out.

You are done! The pants are ready to wear! I added a matching top made out of the bodice pattern in the basic patterns. I will have a tutorial for that next time.

The Uthando Project: Sewing Dolls for South Africa

Dolls bring many people great joy. Dolls can also bring the opportunity to spread joy. Aussie doll maker Julie Dodd became involved with the Uthando Project in 2018. The Uthando Project is a Perth-based charity that started 20 years ago.  Uthando is a Zulu word meaning love. The dolls are made by sewers in Australia and donated to children in need in Kwa Zulu Natal, South Africa.

The charity was founded by Julie Stone a child psychologist and early developmental specialist in Kia Zulu Natal.  Julie was working out of a clinic. In the waiting room was one plastic Caucasian doll and every child who visited wanted to take that doll home. When Julie came back to Australia she asked all her friends who could sew, to help her make comforter dolls to gift to her young clients who were suffering from abuse, neglect and malnutrition.

The charity has grown over the years and there are now groups all over Australia. Approximately 5,000 dolls are donated each year, but there are over 11 million children living in poverty in South Africa, so there’s lots of doll making still to be done.

Julie Dodd, a retired fashion technology teacher, became involved in 2018 when she met the chairperson of the Perth branch of the charity. Julie began to enlist sewers from her community in Sydney. Some of the many sewers she has enlisted are featured on her Instagram (link at the end). 

Each doll is donated with a spare change of clothes, some undies, a blanket, a handbag, and a backpack to put all the goodies in. Julie pattern makes the dolls clothes and works with a digitizer to machine embroider the dolls. Some of the garments are made in the hoop of an embroidery machine. 

Dodd says she receives so many inspiring stories and photos from the five organizations who distribute the dolls in South Africa. 

More about the dolls and the organization can be found at the Uthando Project Website. Also for heartwarming inspiration, follow Julie Dodd’s Instagram.

Gift Idea: Scrappy Phoebe Learn To Sew Kits

It is a little over a month until the holidays. I am not going to suggest a Phoebe doll, because any orders received at this point, I cannot guarantee an Xmas delivery. I have a number of dolls in the works that will make it to their new homes, so if you've already ordered, you don't need to worry.

However... it is not to late to order the perfect gift for teaching your child or grandchild to sew: The Scrappy Phoebe Learn to Sew Kit. 

The kits comes with a 12 inch Scrappy Phoebe doll,  an instruction booklet detailing how to sew and embellish the basic dress and everything you need to make at least eight dresses, including practice fabric, 8 fabrics, 8 trims, velcro closings, Wonderclips and pattern pieces to be traced onto fabric and cut.

Everything is packaged in a cute box for storing when your little one is not sewing. 

I just cut some fun fresh new fabrics for the kits. The dresses and instructions are simple and a great starting point for sewing.

From a customer last Xmas:

"I wanted to thank you for the amazing learn-to-sew kit I purchased for Christmas. Both of my girls (ages 7 and 12) have been making fashions for Phoebe - adapting the pattern for a long sleeve dress, a flannel nightgown and a felt coat "

Kits available in my Etsy shop.

New stack of fabrics for the kits!

The trim packet.

I Can Make Dolls Clothes Book Giveaway

Yesterday I reveiewed this adorable  I Can Make Doll Clothes book.

And today I'm giving away one copy along with 6 fabrics and trims to make some of the patterns in the book. 

Leave a comment under this post, please include your email address either in the comment form or the comment. In two weeks, I will use a random number picker to pick a winner. I will only count people who I can contact through email.

Book Review: I Can Make Dolls' Clothes

I love Instagram. Through Instagram I have stumbled upon a lot of cool makers, including the authors: Georgia Vaux and Louise Scott-Smith.  Their book, aptly named, "I CAN MAKE DOLLS" CLOTHES" is adorable.

The pair have worked on other projects togther in the past and said this book was the perfect combination of all of their interests: fashion, design, craft, and a shared aesthetic and love of the handmade.

I have always thought of sewing for a Barbie sized doll challenging, but this book makes it easy...for even a six year old. The graphics are so fun and simple, if your child can read, they can follow the instructions. But the book isn't just designed for kinds, adults can use it too.

The clothes are better than the bought Barbie clothes. The book helps a child make simple patterns that they can alter, enhance and easily sew. 

And two doll clothing sewing tips from the authors:

1. Don't worry about wobbly stitches, that's part of the charm.
2. If you can't hem the cut edges, or get a grown up to do it, nail varnishing will keep them from fraying.

Tommorrw's post I will be giving away one copy of this book and fabric, trim and velcro to make five dresses.

Doll Dressmaking Series: A Retro Collar

Doll clothes are often retro. Or classic. Or both. I thought a longer sharper collar is both retro and classic. It's also simple to sew. The pattern pieces will be in my next newlsetter.

I am basically following the instructions for my beginner's sleeve dress, which are here. But I'm including complete instructions here too.

From your main fabric cut:

1. Dress front and back
2. Sleeves

From the lining fabric (I used cotton lawn which is lighter in weight):

1. Just the front and back

And then cut the collar fabric cut 4 collar pieces.

Sew shoulder seams of dress together.

Sew shoulder seams of the lining pieces together.

Sew collar pieces together. Clip corners and edges of collars. 

Turon collar pieces right side out and push out corners with a point turner or blunt knitting needle. I use a Dritz Point turner,

Press.

Attach the two collar pieces to the dress fabric neckline making sure they are centered. I baste the centers on first. As shown here. 

Stitch lining to main dress fabric, by starting at the bottom of the back opening, go up to the neckline, around the neckline and back down the back opening. When going around the neckline make sure you are stitching through the lining, the dress fabric AND the collar pieces.

Sew dress fabric to lining at each armhole. This is to make sure they stay together when you attach the sleeves.

Attach sleeves. See my easy sleeve tutorial if you are unsure how. These sleeves do not need gathering or easing.

1. Hem sleeves

2. Pin or clip sleevces to armhole edge. If you are feeling confident you can just sew and adjust while you are sewing.

3. Turn over and check that it looks okay.

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Sew side seams and hem.

I'd love the pattern pieces! Sign up for my newlsetter and receive the base pattern set and keep up with all future pieces. This will be in the upcoming issue.

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The Doll Dressmaking Series: Tips for adjusting a pattern's size

I love Waldorf dolls, but I do not own any.

Yet.

So when I started the Doll Dressmaking Series, I designed the 16 inch Waldorf Doll patterns from the measurements of a local dollmaker who makes lovely Waldorfs. But doll sizes vary, even in mass produced plastic dolls, but especially in Waldorfs.

The good news is with a soft doll, arms, heads and waists can be squeezed in a bit to make things work. But if things are too big they drape or worse still, fall off.

So I asked for feedback from those sewing for Waldorf dolls and I was grateful to here from Andrea, all of the way over in Germany.

She had been using my patterns to sew dresses for her beautiful Waldorf dolls and yes, she had made a few adjustments.

Here's what she said she did:

1. Overall she made the bodice/dress more narrow at the side seams of both the front and back.

2. She also moved the front center foldline in a bit to make the front narrower.

3. She added a bit to the back center edge to make more of an overlap where the dress snaps closed.

4. She made the neckline a bit larger.

Andrea's Adjustments

Above I have drawn on the original pattern to show you approximately what Andrea did. These type of adjustments can be done to any bodice/dress pattern to make it fit a specific doll better. Some times it takes a few tries on how far to take in before you get the exact right fit. When you find it, be sure to draw on your pattern or a copy of your pattern, so you can repeat what you did.

Thank you Andrea!

I will include a link to the PDF pattern for Andrea's adjustment in next week's newsletter.

You can sign up here, and receive all future pattern pieces, plus tips, tutorials, finds and inspiration.

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Doll Dressmaking Series: Where to find cute trim

I love trim. As you can see I have a bit. Before I get into choosing and sewing on various trims, I thought I'd share some of my favorite places to buy trim. The photo below are the trims I tend to use most often for doll clothing.

Next in this series, a series about sewing on various dolls trims.

Where to find cute trim for doll clothing

When shopping for ribbon, remember often one yard will cover trimming three doll dresses.

Velvet Ribbon comes in all sorts of widths. 

• MJ Trim has the largest variety of widths and colors, but not the cheapest. You must buy a minimum of five yards.
• JKM Ribbon sells spools of ten yards of 3/8" and 5/8" the two best widths for doll clothes for roughly five dollars and has a sufficient selection. 
• Create for Less has 1/2" width spools for $3.39, but a spool is only 3 yards. 
• Farmhouse Fabrics has an amazing selection, but the ribbon starts at $145 a yard. If you are into quality classic sewing materials, you can lose yourself on this site.

Rick Rack, posted about this awhile back but here are the sources again.

Wright's Rick Rack (polyester) sold in the little cellophane cover packets is available many places online. It comes in over 20 colors. You can order Wright's here:

• JKM Trims and Ribbons
• Joanne's

Cotton Rick Rack can be found at:

• Farmhouse Fabrics
• Harts
• Elegant Stitches

Rolls of Rick Rack (polyester)

• Create for Less carries a cool brand called Cheep Trims in addition to having Wrights and lots of other cool stuff.

Crochet edging, sometimes called Cluny

• Farmhouse Fabrics, wide range, quality and there more expensive, but sometimes sell bags of assorted edging cheaply in their barn closeouts.
• Debs Lace and Trims: Lots of crochet edging, very inexpensive. have a whole cluny section.
• Ebay: amazing selection and prices for white crochet trim, which is my favorite. 

Jacquard Ribbon:

This is fairly easy to find, but what is hard to find is the narrower widths of doll clothing. You can play with scale, which can be cute, and use larger sizes. Here are a few places you can find some:

• MJTrim again.
• Farmhouse Fabrics. This is where the cherry trim in the photo is from. Huge selection and a lot of tiny ones. Not inexpensive though.
• Fabric.com has a fairly large selection.

Mini Pompoms!

• Fabric.com has a few colors at about a little under a dollar a yard. 
• Create for Less best source if you want a large supply of mini pom-poms. 36 yards for $18. Lots of colors. larger pompoms too.
• Etsy, lots of people sell them, often a few dollars for five yards.

Bias Trim:

I make my own. simple to do, and you will always have an endless variety and sizes. I'll post about this later.

Ruffle Trim:

I bought this particular one in bulk wholesale from Mokuba, Japanese trim dealer in NYC. I had to buy 30 yards, but I love it and use it all the time. If you ever find yourself in the garment district, stop in. You need a business card to get in, but they are not that fussy about what business. Lots of ruffled trims in lots of sizes and colors. Maybe it's a thing in Japan.

Farmhouse Fabrics has some, but they are not small.

Grosgrain Ribbon: 

I love the simplicity of grosgrain ribbon. It is easy to find.

• Create for Less has a huge selection, which includes stripes and other designs.
• Debs Lace and Trims: It's not a separate section, you have to look through other sorts of ribbons too.
• Fabric.com lots starting at about 20 cents a yard.
• Thread Art: About $2.00 for a 20 yard roll. You really can't do better than that. If you need 20 yards.
• Etsy, easy to get smaller quantities.

In the next few posts in this series, I'll show you how I sew trims on doll clothes.

Doll Dressmaking Series: Another Tool

My definition of a "cool tool" is something that makes boring work a bit more fun.  

Sewing by machine creates lots of little threads that need to be snipped close to the fabric. Snipping quickly with larger scissors can result in the accidental over snip into fabric, plus it's hard to get up close. But, there's the perfect little tool for that—thread snips! 

Thread snips, very low tech but useful.

They are about as small, light, basic and low tech as a sewing tool can get. Mostly they are useful, they make thread cutting easy, quick, accurate and almost fun.  There beauty is in their flatness. Just squeeze gently and snip.

There are a variety of brands, on the same concept. They are usually under five dollars, so of course, you should have a couple to have ready anywhere you might sit with a sewing project.

Doll clothes, or all clothes for that matter, look much better with threads snipped.

They can snip the tiniest of threads poking up.

Doll Dressmaking Series: The Reversible Dress

In my last post, I showed you how make a facing for a basic doll dress. A facing is one way to finish raw edges. When you line a simple sleeveless dress, you something extra, a reversible  dress. Cute, simple and a bit magical from a child's point of view.

How to line a simple doll dress. Makes a sweet reversible dress.

There are several things to consider when choosing your two fabrics:

1. Fabric weight. Quilting cotton is as heavy as you can go. Two layers of anything heavier at a doll's size will be too bulky and the seams will get bunchy.
2. Color. Quilting cotton is not completely opaque. So choose  fabrics where you won't see one fabric through the other. Bothe light or both dark. 
3. If you just want a lining, white is fine. White cotton lawn is good too, since it is so lightweight.
4. Don't choose something that shreds or unravels too easily, like many linens. With a quarter inch seams, you may have some unraveling seams and once the dress is finished and "sealed up" you have no way of going back in and fixing any seam gaps. For one fabric I used quilting cotton, but for the other I used oxford cloth shirting, which does fray a bit.

Make two copies of your basic dress pattern and pin and cut one out of each fabric.

There are several things to consider when choosing your two fabrics.

Next sew together the shoulder seams for each fabric as though they were two independent dresses. Press the seams flat.

Pressing seams is a good habit and makes everything look better.

1. Place the two dresses together with rich sides together lining shoulder seams up to match.
2. Sew the two dresses together starting from the hem edge of the back opening up the back opening, around the neck and back down the other side of the back (see closeup below). Next sew each armhole edge together (see close up below). Carefully clip curves and cut sharp edge off of the corner.
3. Turn inside out by pushing/pulling back halves through the shoulder hole.

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Close-up  of where to sew your two dresses together.

Once the dress has the right sides out, you will need to neaten things up a bit. First use a semi-pointy something to push your corners out, so they look like corners and not curves. I use a tool called The Purple Thang. But there are a number of things that will work. A size five knitting needle if it isn't too pointy. You don't want to poke straight through the fabric. then press so the edges of your seams are flat.

Use a semi pointy something to push your corners out.

Press the neck and armhole seams.

Next you will be sewing up the side seams, but this is done so in the end the side seams will be hidden. in other words, no inside of the dress with fraying or messy or even visible seams:

Your dress now has four bottom of armhole seams. Two on the right side of the dress, two on the left. Find them.

Match bottom of your armhole seams.

Pin your two right armhole seams together with right sides of the fabric together. Do the same for the left side. Pin the side seams together from hem to armhole. Notice on my fabric, I've pinned blue to blue, and dotted to dotted.

Now you will sew from the blue hem to the dotted hem with your pinned together armhole seam in the middle of these two. repeat for the other side of your dress.

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Flip your dress right sides out and press. Now only the hem and snaps are left.  You've finished all of the tricky parts. Hopefully they weren't that tricky.

You are so close to done with your reversible doll dress.

1. After pressing flip dress back inside out. Pin and sew hems together leaving a gap for turning back right side out.
2. Fix your hem corners.
3. Hand stitch up the small remaining gap in the hem. You can use whip stitch, ladder stitch or edge stitch.
4. Add snaps and you have a dress, or kind of two.

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Would love to hear back from anyone who makes a reversible or lined dress. Send photos or...problems and questions.