Doll Dressmaking Series:Dress with a bodice and gathered skirt

Last week, you learned reversible dress.  From the photos I have received, at least some of you got that down fairly easily. This next dress uses a few skills learned from that dress for a new style of dress—a dress with a bodice and gathered skirt.

Doll Dressmaking: A dress with a bodice and gathered skirt.

The bodice pattern piece can easily be made from your basic dress pattern. Choose where you want your bodice to end and end the pattern piece about 1/3 of an inch beyond that. 

You will end up with two bodice pieces, one for the front and one for the back. You will need two of each, because you will be making a lining for the bodice.

The pattern piece for your skirt is basically a rectangle. For Phoebe I used a 10.5"x8" pattern piece, to be placed on the fold. this will give me a 21 x 8" piece of fabric for the skirt.

For the Waldorf Doll and the American Girl Doll I would make the skirt pattern piece 12"x8". The 8 inch side will go on the fold, giving you a 24"x8" skirt.

Ultimately the skirt size will come down to taste, how full do you like your gathering, how long do you like the skirt? I don't like my gathering very full.

Start by making the bodice.

1. Pin and cut two bodices, one for the outside, one for the lining. I used the same fabric for both, but you switch it up.

2. sew all four shoulder seams.

3. Press.

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1. Sew neck and back edges and armholes as you did in the lined reversible dress tutorial.  Right sides together.

2. Turn right side out. Press.

3. Sew side seams as you did in the reversible dress.

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Finish the two 8 inch edges of the skirt. these will be a part of the back closing of the dress.

1. Iron each edge over 1/4 inch.

2. Fold over again and stitch.

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Next is gathering the skirt:

1. Set your machine stitch to its longest length. On most machines, it is 5.

2. Start your first line os stitches by reversing for a few stitches, as you would most seams, to secure the stitching. But do not secure the end of the stitching. Instead leave a long thread that you can grab and pull.

3. An eighth of an inch away, repeat. You now have two rows of long stitches, secured at the beginning, with long threads at the end.

4. Take the two threads from one side of the fabric (depicted in red on my sewing) and gently pull.

5. Pull the threads until the skirt is gathered and the same length as the bottom of the bodice. Even out the gathers. 

Still confused by gathering:

Craft Cupboard has a good tutorial.

and so does Craftsy.

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1. Secure gathering by winding thread around a pin.

2. Pin gathered skirt to the outside fabric of the bodice. Right sides together.

3.  Stitch along the lower row of gathering stitches. 

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1. Fold bodice lining in about 1/4 inch.

2. Hand stitch with a hem (edge) stitch to hold in place, keeping raw edge of skirt tucked in while you sew.

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Your dress is almost done. 

1. Hem to desired length.

2. Press.

3. Add trim if desired.

There are lot of ways to change this dress up. trims, contrasting fabric, the same fabric. Different types of fabric (wool, tulle, silk...

Have fun and send photos!

Doll Dressmaking Series Update

Tomorrow, how to make a dress with a gathered bodice, and how to gather!

Off to a new home

Baby Egg left for her new home in Indiana today. Yes, she flew home in her jammies.

Off to her new home!

Sister dolls

I recently received two custom requests for my African American doll with the fun braids. One request was a for a jointed Baby Egg and one was for a toddler Phoebe doll. They look like sisters who are maybe 18 months apart.

The hair for this doll is done by wrapping wool yarn as though casting on for a knitting project at the end of each braid. Then I take the ends of the yarn and with a needle weave them back through and cut them.

I thought it would be fun to do a photo shoot before the ends were woven in—Medusa style.

Soon they ship off to different homes.

Phoebe doll before her hair is finished.

Sisters dolls!

Doll Dressmaking Series: Another Tool

My definition of a "cool tool" is something that makes boring work a bit more fun.  

Sewing by machine creates lots of little threads that need to be snipped close to the fabric. Snipping quickly with larger scissors can result in the accidental over snip into fabric, plus it's hard to get up close. But, there's the perfect little tool for that—thread snips! 

Thread snips, very low tech but useful.

They are about as small, light, basic and low tech as a sewing tool can get. Mostly they are useful, they make thread cutting easy, quick, accurate and almost fun.  There beauty is in their flatness. Just squeeze gently and snip.

There are a variety of brands, on the same concept. They are usually under five dollars, so of course, you should have a couple to have ready anywhere you might sit with a sewing project.

Doll clothes, or all clothes for that matter, look much better with threads snipped.

They can snip the tiniest of threads poking up.

A New Cuddly Egg

I've been having fun with a few custom dolls. Here's a sneak peek at one. A pink haired Cuddly Egg doll. 

A new Cuddly Egg!

In her Pjs

Cuddly Egg trying to walk

Things I love: Rowan 4 Ply Cotton Yarn

I got fixated on Rowan yarns about ten years ago, before the knitting renaissance, before Ravelry, before Quince and all of the other cool new yarn companies sprung up. Back in 2004 Rowan kind of dominated the quality yarn market. Most stores carried it and it was available online. Not only was it online, but when it arrived it looked and felt as good as you hoped. Not true of all yarns back then.

I bought more than my fair share, when my youngest, AKA, Egg, was a toddler and would still wear hand knit sweaters, if they were cotton. That's when I stumbled upon the Rowan cotton line: their 4ply Cotton, Cotton Glace and Hand Knit Cotton. My youngest daughter still prefers cotton for her sweaters, but rather they are bought at Hollister or American Eagle. Luckily I now have a doll line, because I love knitting with it.

Four of the amazing colors Rowan 4ply cotton came in

It's a fingering yarn, meaning best knit on US size two needles. I like knitting small. I guess that's why I'm in this business. Sadly, it is discontinued, but still can be found on Ravelry and Ebay. I have a good enough stash that I don't feel panicky about the end of a thing yet. Rowan Siena is a very similar yarn, also recently discontinued but easier to find on the resale market.

Why do I love this yarn? It's soft, but crisp and holds its shape and feels firms to knit with--All qualities that are hard to find in a fine cotton yarn. But mostly it comes in the most amazing colors, fun children's colors, but not too bright. The whites are pretty too. And it has the most subtle but perfect sheen, even after blocking.

Love the color white!

My love affair with this discontinued yarn continues

Yes, that is my new label peaking through!

Doll Dressmaking Series: The Reversible Dress

In my last post, I showed you how make a facing for a basic doll dress. A facing is one way to finish raw edges. When you line a simple sleeveless dress, you something extra, a reversible  dress. Cute, simple and a bit magical from a child's point of view.

How to line a simple doll dress. Makes a sweet reversible dress.

There are several things to consider when choosing your two fabrics:

1. Fabric weight. Quilting cotton is as heavy as you can go. Two layers of anything heavier at a doll's size will be too bulky and the seams will get bunchy.
2. Color. Quilting cotton is not completely opaque. So choose  fabrics where you won't see one fabric through the other. Bothe light or both dark. 
3. If you just want a lining, white is fine. White cotton lawn is good too, since it is so lightweight.
4. Don't choose something that shreds or unravels too easily, like many linens. With a quarter inch seams, you may have some unraveling seams and once the dress is finished and "sealed up" you have no way of going back in and fixing any seam gaps. For one fabric I used quilting cotton, but for the other I used oxford cloth shirting, which does fray a bit.

Make two copies of your basic dress pattern and pin and cut one out of each fabric.

There are several things to consider when choosing your two fabrics.

Next sew together the shoulder seams for each fabric as though they were two independent dresses. Press the seams flat.

Pressing seams is a good habit and makes everything look better.

1. Place the two dresses together with rich sides together lining shoulder seams up to match.
2. Sew the two dresses together starting from the hem edge of the back opening up the back opening, around the neck and back down the other side of the back (see closeup below). Next sew each armhole edge together (see close up below). Carefully clip curves and cut sharp edge off of the corner.
3. Turn inside out by pushing/pulling back halves through the shoulder hole.

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Close-up  of where to sew your two dresses together.

Once the dress has the right sides out, you will need to neaten things up a bit. First use a semi-pointy something to push your corners out, so they look like corners and not curves. I use a tool called The Purple Thang. But there are a number of things that will work. A size five knitting needle if it isn't too pointy. You don't want to poke straight through the fabric. then press so the edges of your seams are flat.

Use a semi pointy something to push your corners out.

Press the neck and armhole seams.

Next you will be sewing up the side seams, but this is done so in the end the side seams will be hidden. in other words, no inside of the dress with fraying or messy or even visible seams:

Your dress now has four bottom of armhole seams. Two on the right side of the dress, two on the left. Find them.

Match bottom of your armhole seams.

Pin your two right armhole seams together with right sides of the fabric together. Do the same for the left side. Pin the side seams together from hem to armhole. Notice on my fabric, I've pinned blue to blue, and dotted to dotted.

Now you will sew from the blue hem to the dotted hem with your pinned together armhole seam in the middle of these two. repeat for the other side of your dress.

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Flip your dress right sides out and press. Now only the hem and snaps are left.  You've finished all of the tricky parts. Hopefully they weren't that tricky.

You are so close to done with your reversible doll dress.

1. After pressing flip dress back inside out. Pin and sew hems together leaving a gap for turning back right side out.
2. Fix your hem corners.
3. Hand stitch up the small remaining gap in the hem. You can use whip stitch, ladder stitch or edge stitch.
4. Add snaps and you have a dress, or kind of two.

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Would love to hear back from anyone who makes a reversible or lined dress. Send photos or...problems and questions.

Doll Dressmaking Series: Facings 101

How you handle the edges of a doll dress can change the look of the dress. I am going to cover several basic ways to finish edges on a doll dress beyond the basic fold over a quarter inch and machine hem, otherwise known as a single fold hem. Very basic, (a word my older daughter uses as an insult). So what else can you do?

Single fold hem, not my first choice for edging a doll dress.

Today, I will show you how to make a simple facing for our basic dress using the basic doll dress pattern (if you don't have one use the link at the end).  The illustration below shows how to make the front facing. 

In pink, the front facing for the basic dress.

Below shows you how to draw the back facing for the basic doll dress.

You now should have four pattern pieces, the front facing, the back facing, the dress front pattern piece, and the dress back pattern piece.

1.  Use Figure 1 as a guide for laying them out. If you are using a half of the front for your pattern piece be sure to place it on the fold, likewise for the front facing. I used contrasting fabrics, which adds an unexpected element of fun, but the facing can be the same as the dress fabric.

2. Sew should seams of the facing and the dress, as shown.

3. Press should seams.

4. Machine hem the bottoms of the facing, as shown.

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Pin and sew facing to dress body for neckline and the armholes RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER.

Sew from 1 to 2,

from 3 to 4, and

from 5 to 6. 

Sew neckline and armholes.

Turn right side out.

Facing turned Right Side Out.

Sew back edges down as a single fold hem. In another lesson we will cover doublefold hem and serging. 

Single edge hems for the edge of the back.

Press and your basic dress has a basic facing. You can sew up the side seams and you have a simple dress with a simple facing.

Doll Dressmaking Update

I know there has been a bit of a pause in the doll dressmaking series and I apologize for that. It's been a busy week and now I'm off to enjoy a long girls weekend with my two favorite girls--my two daughters. Next week, school is in full swing, and so am I, and so is the doll dressmaking.

Next topic, facing, linings and how to avoid raw edges.

Until then enjoy the long weekend!